Egon Muller, Scharzhofberger Auslese 2023

The 2023 Scharzhofberger Auslese (AP #8; the Auslese with AP #9 is the Gold Capsule that will be auctioned possibly next year) shows intense, spicy fruit that is noticeably darker than that of the Spätlese (AP #12) to be auctioned. Chewy on the palate, this is a mouth-filling Scharzhofberger. It is dense, complex and juicy yet extremely savory and expressive, marked by laser-like acidity and offering notes of bitter orange in the finish, representing the meticulous selection of botrytized grapes, although green berries were still accepted for this Auslese. The combination of concentrated, aromatic fruit and racy acidity links this Scharzhofberger Riesling to the warm phase of the vintage with the cool month of August. During the tasting in spring, the texture and acidity were still somewhat at odds with one another, which created a lot of tension but not much subtlety. This will undoubtedly change over the years in the bottle. Whether it takes 20 or 30 years for finesse and harmony to reveal themselves, only time will tell. In any case, this extract-rich Auslese with its mouthwatering mineral finish gives rise to high hopes. If you want to enjoy an early taste of a Scharzhofberg, you should not buy an Auslese but a Kabinett, because as a rule, even after only 10 years, it tastes heavenly in its mouth-filling harmony and delicacy.