Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanee 1er Aux Reignots 2008

Boasting both the sweetest, darkest berry fruits and gamiest, most pronouncedly animal aspects of any of Liger-Belair’s premier crus of this vintage, their 2008 Vosne Romanee Aux Reignots comes to the palate palpably dense; intensely berry-sweet; pungently peaty; loaded with fine tannins; yet for all of its metaphoric darkness, exuberantly bright and invigorating. This has the grip, energy, structure, and incipient complexity to repay extended cellaring, and will, I suspect, remain fascinating for at least 15 years.