Meo-Camuzet, Corton Grand Cru Clos Rognet 1999 (Torn Label)

I hadn’t tried this beauty since 2008 but not much has changed as it’s very much still improving. This is a very ripe and classically robust Corton that carries its 14.4% alcohol effortlessly and with no obvious warmth and one that I clearly underestimated from barrel as it’s turned into a genuinely great example of the vineyard. Specifically, a notably ripe and hugely complex nose that is still entirely primary features notes of blueberry, raspberry, earth, underbrush and a trace of smoke that complement perfectly the rich, muscled and robust big-boned flavors brimming with so much dry extract that it renders the very firm tannins almost invisible and confers a velvety texture to the massively long finish. This is almost chewy at present yet for such a big wine, there is no sense of heaviness or lack of grace. A great Corton that will live for decades and is still very much on the way up. Note that one other recent bottle seemed heavily toasted and dominated by its wood treatment; while still interesting it was decidedly less so that the examples that I describe above. Tasted by Allen Meadows in Oct 2016